In my last post I announced the transplant of my first seedlings (yes!). In this entry, I want to share my experience in starting the seeds and caring for the seedlings, the lessons learned, as well as hands-on tips and practical advice to guide you through transplanting the seedlings.
In an earlier post introducing starting seeds, I covered the basics of the subject. The post was an account of my approach to planning to start growing plants from seed. Moving on from seed starting to the transplanting stage, and revisiting the post, I find the points I made still valid. So, if you are still toying with the idea of growing your own food, you might find this introductory guide from a novice gardener useful.
Before I get to demonstrating the transplanting steps, first, a list of lessons learned in starting the seeds and caring for the seedlings (or you can jump right to the step-by-step demonstration here:
one | toilet paper rolls make the best seed starter pots
So, bottom line, start recycling you toilet paper rolls - they make excellent seed starter pots.
two | keep the soil light and airy
three| seedlings require regular observation and food
Now, on to the transplanting steps, the demonstration photos below show the transplant of a chili seedling:
Seedlings can be transplanted as soon as they develop the first two sets of true leaves. I had kept mine outdoors, when they emerged, I moved the starter pots into the designated troughs and containers, positioned them so that the seedlings got sufficient sunlight, and would cover them with a plastic sheet overnight to protect them from wind and to retain moisture.
As a general rule, do not water the plants on the day you transplant them - the soil needs to be dry enough to hold itself together when you remove it from its pot. Before you actually transplant the seedlings, you will need to prepare the soil mixture. By this time you should have planned the size and location of your container(s).
For purely economic reasons, I changed the ratios at which I mix the potting soil using: 1 part coco-peat, 2 parts sand, and 1 part perlite (sand being the cheapest ingredient). This makes for a sterile nutrient free mixture; however, crops do require a fertile medium, even with use of nutrient supplements (a detailed post about plant nutrient needs and feeding will be published soon), so it is advisable to add compost as well. I still have not produced my own, but there is a local brand (ECARU Nile Compost by Entag) which is of very good quality and comes with documentation of its composition and mixing ratios.
Now prepare your container, lining the the drainage holes with gravel or broken crocks, and adding the soil. Do not compact the soil (you can check out this post about starting a container herb garden for more details and photos of setting up the container), the filled container should be at least 20 cm deep.
Depending on the type of plant, the space needed by each one, and the container size, you will be able to determine the number of seedlings you will plant in each container and the distance between them (the distance between plants is always given the factsheets of the crops I have grown so far).
In the spots where the seedlings will be planted, dig out a small hole for each plant a bit larger than the size of the seedling soil ball. In a small cup, mix about 1/8 a teaspoon with a couple of handfuls of compost. Sprinkle the hole bottoms liberally with this mixture.
At this stage you are ready to knock the seedlings out of their starter pot, be very careful not to severe or disturb the roots. You usually place the stem between your index and middle fingers, and turn over the pot cupping the soil ball in with your fingers and palm. If you use toilet paper rolls, simply peel them away carefully.
Now place the seedling in the hole, its soil base should be a bit below the container soil level, and loosely cover the hole and stem base with soil.
Hold the planted seedling with your fingers surrounding it (as if attempting to pluck it with all fingers) and tuck it tightly into the soil.
You will need to watch your planted seedling for any loss of vigor. I will be posting a troubleshooting guide and will be following up the factsheets posted for each crop seeds with ones about plant care and possible diseases. But at this stage, if for any reason your transplanted seedling doesn't thrive or eventually dies, do not reuse its containing soil for either seed starting or seedling growing medium.
And that's it. You have transplanted a seedling. Happy growing!
Before I get to demonstrating the transplanting steps, first, a list of lessons learned in starting the seeds and caring for the seedlings (or you can jump right to the step-by-step demonstration here:
one | toilet paper rolls make the best seed starter pots
Of all the containers I used (plastic produce trays as flatbeds, plastic nursery starter pots, plastic dairy containers) my favorite proved to be the use of toilet paper rolls, and here's why:
- the carton has worse heat conductive properties than plastic; hence, the soil temperature is kept relatively constant - it doesn't heat up or cool off too much over day and night, respectively
- the carton absorbs water and the paper rolls are open-bottomed; hence, it is almost impossible to have the soil get too soggy - excess moisture can prevent the germination of a number of seeds and is associated with damping-off, the downside to this is that you need to be careful not to let the soil dry out
- it is very easy to simply peel away the paper roll when it is time to transplant the seedling with minimal disturbance to the root
two | keep the soil light and airy
The soil mixture I used (1 part coco-peat, 1 part sand, 1 part perlite) is very well suited for starting seeds: water retention is quite adequate while being airy and light.
In addition to being a healthy growth medium, the relative looseness of a light potting mixture is also very advantageous in transplanting: when you knock out a seedling, soil that is not firmly contained by the developing root hair ball will drop off without stressing the roots too much or severing them.
All gardening guides will advise you to keep the soil moist "but not soggy", I can only repeat that. If you use some sort of plastic covering overnight to retain moisture, you will find that in the first couple of weeks seedlings hardly require any watering beyond regular mist-spraying.
In addition to being a healthy growth medium, the relative looseness of a light potting mixture is also very advantageous in transplanting: when you knock out a seedling, soil that is not firmly contained by the developing root hair ball will drop off without stressing the roots too much or severing them.
All gardening guides will advise you to keep the soil moist "but not soggy", I can only repeat that. If you use some sort of plastic covering overnight to retain moisture, you will find that in the first couple of weeks seedlings hardly require any watering beyond regular mist-spraying.
three| seedlings require regular observation and food
Check on your seedlings at least twice a day: once in the early morning and once in the evening - a sudden onset of a heat wave can significantly increase the water demand of the seedlings over day.
Once the first sets of true leaves develop, you will need to start feeding the seedlings. Use an all-purpose 15-15-15 fertilizer (I will be posting a detailed entry about plant nutrient needs and feeding) once a week.
Once the first sets of true leaves develop, you will need to start feeding the seedlings. Use an all-purpose 15-15-15 fertilizer (I will be posting a detailed entry about plant nutrient needs and feeding) once a week.
Now, on to the transplanting steps, the demonstration photos below show the transplant of a chili seedling:
Seedlings can be transplanted as soon as they develop the first two sets of true leaves. I had kept mine outdoors, when they emerged, I moved the starter pots into the designated troughs and containers, positioned them so that the seedlings got sufficient sunlight, and would cover them with a plastic sheet overnight to protect them from wind and to retain moisture.
As a general rule, do not water the plants on the day you transplant them - the soil needs to be dry enough to hold itself together when you remove it from its pot. Before you actually transplant the seedlings, you will need to prepare the soil mixture. By this time you should have planned the size and location of your container(s).
For purely economic reasons, I changed the ratios at which I mix the potting soil using: 1 part coco-peat, 2 parts sand, and 1 part perlite (sand being the cheapest ingredient). This makes for a sterile nutrient free mixture; however, crops do require a fertile medium, even with use of nutrient supplements (a detailed post about plant nutrient needs and feeding will be published soon), so it is advisable to add compost as well. I still have not produced my own, but there is a local brand (ECARU Nile Compost by Entag) which is of very good quality and comes with documentation of its composition and mixing ratios.
Now prepare your container, lining the the drainage holes with gravel or broken crocks, and adding the soil. Do not compact the soil (you can check out this post about starting a container herb garden for more details and photos of setting up the container), the filled container should be at least 20 cm deep.
Depending on the type of plant, the space needed by each one, and the container size, you will be able to determine the number of seedlings you will plant in each container and the distance between them (the distance between plants is always given the factsheets of the crops I have grown so far).
In the spots where the seedlings will be planted, dig out a small hole for each plant a bit larger than the size of the seedling soil ball. In a small cup, mix about 1/8 a teaspoon with a couple of handfuls of compost. Sprinkle the hole bottoms liberally with this mixture.
At this stage you are ready to knock the seedlings out of their starter pot, be very careful not to severe or disturb the roots. You usually place the stem between your index and middle fingers, and turn over the pot cupping the soil ball in with your fingers and palm. If you use toilet paper rolls, simply peel them away carefully.
Now place the seedling in the hole, its soil base should be a bit below the container soil level, and loosely cover the hole and stem base with soil.
Hold the planted seedling with your fingers surrounding it (as if attempting to pluck it with all fingers) and tuck it tightly into the soil.
You will need to watch your planted seedling for any loss of vigor. I will be posting a troubleshooting guide and will be following up the factsheets posted for each crop seeds with ones about plant care and possible diseases. But at this stage, if for any reason your transplanted seedling doesn't thrive or eventually dies, do not reuse its containing soil for either seed starting or seedling growing medium.
And that's it. You have transplanted a seedling. Happy growing!
